The Narrower Road and The Hike

Day 5 – June 17, 2017

[More internet connectivity issues - so I am not sure when you are reading this.]

We awoke early for our ride to Pumamarca to visit an Incan site high above the Urubamba Valley. Our ride was quite interesting to say the least. We started on narrow roads leading out of the town of Ollantaytambo. How narrow? At one point our minivan came face-to-face with a small motorcycle-turned-into taxi (“mono-taxi” is the local word). There was no way for both of us to pass. After some finger pointing and a few unkind words, our minivan BACKED DOWN the very narrow road to where it widened by a mere 6 inches, which was enough to let the mono-taxi through.

We got off this “main road” onto a smaller, gravellier, and more narrow road to start up the mountain. I must say it was a bit nerve-wracking as the edge of the van was right along the edge of the road which was right along the edge of the abyss. As it turns out, as we approached another turn-off, there was a newly erected booth and with a rope across the road. There was lots of discussion with two local people and our guide. Apparently, the local villagers decided it was time to start extracting money from visitors to Pumamarca. This had all happened in the past week so no one at our travel agency nor the driver nor our guide knew anything about it. After paying a fee, the rope went down and we proceeded on the narrow, gravel road.

Just when we thought it could not get worse, we went onto a dirt road that was wide enough for, at most, two bicycle. Two tricycles would have been too wide. Somehow, Andres maneuvered the minivan along the many switchbacks to get up the mountain. To be honest, we were all leaning in toward the center of the car hoping our weight would help keep us on the road. After 5 minutes, I could not look anymore. Really, I am serious … we were that close to the edge of falling down the mountain.

We got to a flat drop-off area and then had to hike the equivalent of about 9 stories up to the ruins. We actually walked through local farm land of wheat and corn. Who farms at this altitude? We did not see much of local villagers so we were not sure where our money was going to get here, but obviously someone is scratching out a living with these small plots of land growing crops. There were many terraces in the area and some quite hidden by overgrowth. Again, we have a growing confidence that there are many, many such tightly constructed stone walls creating terraces that are unknown or uncharted in these remote mountains. 

 Field of corn at Pumamarca.

 Field of wheat at Pumamarca.

 A well-built Incan terrace wall that is overgrown with vegetation and not used by the locals for farming. Who knows ow many of these are 'buried' in the mountains and jungles?

 View from the ruins at Pumamarca.

At the edge of the Incan village of Pumamarca.

The ruins had some very nice views. After a brief visit we started on our trail that was to traverse about 3-4 miles back to civilization 1500 feet below.

The hike was very enjoyable (again, a fabulous day of clear skies and good temperatures. The trail was single file but we stopped to hear what Ronnie had to say about the local area. Frequently, we encountered walls along the path that were built exquisitely by the Inca – some with considerable overgrowth and nearly hidden. It was generally a gradual downhill walk that had astounding views, including Joe spotting a very high flying bird that turned out to be one of the indigenous eagles (we were hoping for a condor). I will just include some pictures to show you how many areas have Incan terraces that date back 500+ years – some still in use and some overgrown. It is hard to imagine how many people it took and how many years it took to build farming terraces everywhere – some of them having 70 terraces stretching far up a mountain.

 The start of the hike leaving Pumamarca.

 One of many, many hidden Incan walls left unattended and covered in vegetation.

Some locals that were heading UP the trail with supplies for their village.

The burros were heavy laden with food and cooking gas.

On the hiking trail with one of the many areas with hugely terraced mountainside.

The mountains in the background are so big, but so far away, it is hard to get that perspective from the pictures.

Another very impressive view where we had our morning snack break of various fruits.

Just another amazing view on the trail - again, we are "in the middle of nowhere."

We were picked up at the end of our trail by our driver Andres and taken to lunch in the town of Ollantaytambo. We ate at Uchucuta, and I would highly recommend this restaurant. We had alpaca, beef and I had the local pumpkin soup appetizer and the trout (which turned out to be a lot like salmon). I also had the local Andean favorite soft drink that was derived from purple corn. It was very good! Who knew corn could be turned into a soft drink?

After lunch we went to the archeological site that is right in Ollantaytambo. It has many and very steep terraces with a sun temple and grain storage houses. Recent excavations have revealed additional foundations and terraces below what can be seen at the present time. Walking up the steps was a bit exhausting and required a couple of stops (we are at 11,500 feet), but it was worth it. Across the way on another mountain were additional Incan ruins.

 The main entrance to the Incan site at Ollantaytambo.

 A view of how steep some of the many terraces are at Ollantaytambo.

 Three goof-balls peaking through one of the doors of a dwelling.

 This picture is from about halfway up the terraces and helps give a perspective on 

how steep this mountainside Incan settlement was.

Many paths and stairs had to be traversed carefully one steep (and sometimes large) step at a time.

We ended the day with a walk from our hotel toward the town center. The road was narrow (need I say more) and the various taxis and tour buses have no qualms about speeding up and down the street as they try to garner favor with tourists needing a ride. Also, sidewalks are optional along this street, but endless rows of street vendors appear to be mandatory. For dinner, we landed at Orisha’s where we had some traditional Peruvian dishes and drinks (e.g. Pisco and Coke as opposed to rum and Coke). Thereafter we sat in the hotel courtyard/garden and conversed about the spectacular happenings of the day.